How to replace the foldover waistband with an elastic

This tutorial shows how to replace the foldover waistband with an elastic waistband on the Kim pants/shorts. A faster and quicker method that also uses less fabric.

Adjusting the allowance

The original pattern is drafted for a 6 mm (1/4") seam at the waist (for the waistband). If you are using an elastic, the waist seam allowance must be increased.

Slide a piece of paper under front and back pieces (A and B), along the waist edge, and tape. Draw a line parallel to the waist edge to add 1.5 cm (5/8") to the existing seam allowance (for a 2 cm (3/4") elastic).

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Cut along this line. Your pattern pieces are now ready to use.

Elastic application

Cut the elastic to the length indicated in the Kim elastic chart.

Overlap the ends by 1.5 cm (5/8") and stitch to form a loop. Divide the elastic into four equal sections and mark with pins.

Mark the waist opening into fourths (using the front and back crotch seams as reference points).

With right side of fabric facing out, pin the elastic to the wrong side of the waist opening, matching the quarter marks. Baste in place with a zigzag stitch, stretching the elastic to fit.

Fold the elastic to the inside and topstitch with a zigzag, double needle, or coverstitch, stretching slightly so the fabric lies flat as you sew.

Finishing

Try on the garment, adjust the length if needed, then hem following steps 21 and 22 of the original Kim pattern.