How to sew the ALEX single welt pocket

The Alex pullover pocket is a bit different than the average single welt pocket. Here are some photos that might help some of you through the construction.

First you need to fold your welt piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, sew a guide seam 1 cm (3/8'') from its raw edge and along the pocket opening edge.

Alex pocket and band before assembly

Then, pin your welt to the right side of the pocket (fold towards the curved edge), guide seams together and the welt centered on the opening (same amount of fabric above and below the opening. Then, stitch as shown, stopping at the short seams at the top and bottom of the openingL

Stitching the welt onto the pocket piece

Now, clip the POCKET ONLY, at the corners of the opening. Make sure you clip up to the corner but without cutting the thread:

Clipping pocket opening corners for the single welt pocket

Before flipping the welt to cover the opening, you can sew a guide seam 1 cm (3/8'') from edge. This new guide seam is the side seam location (when you sew the front to the back later on):

Guide seam along the side edge

Flip the welt towards the opening and bring the raw edges of the opening with the raw edges of the welt ends and stitch on the guide seam:

Short ends of pocket opening stitched to welt piece

This attaches the short end of the pocket opening to the welt:

On end of the welt attached to the pocket piece

The welt is now sewn to all three sides of the pocket opening:

All three sides of the welt sewn

As you can see, the welt fold is 1 cm (3/8'') from edge so it does not get caught in the side seam later on.

Topstitch around the welt before the next step:

topstitch around the opening

Pin the wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the pocket bottom piece:

Pin to pocket bottom piece

Baste along the curved edge and side edge (over the previous guide seam: 

Baste pocket pieces together

No need to baste along the bottom as it will be closed at the very end, when you hem the garment.

Sew pocket to front


Continue with assembly as instructed on the pattern.  

When sewing the back to the front, stitch with the front/pocket on top. This way, you will see your guide seam and sew on it:

Sew side seam

By doing so, you make sure not to catch the welt in the seam and keep the pocket opening. As you can see on the photo, the folded edge of the welt ends up right against the side seam:

Finished pocket opening

We hope this will give you the confidence to make your own Alex fleece pullover :)

Happy sewing!

← 3461 / Éléonore pull-on jeans / Video Tutorial Turn the Claudia bikini into an unlined bralette →