How to Sew the Welt Pocket in Jalie 2795
Have you been putting off the Jalie 2795 jacket because of the welt pockets? Don’t let them stop you! This three-sided welt pocket may look advanced, but it becomes much easier when you sew it one step at a time. We’ll be right here to guide you through it.
The welt finishes three sides of the pocket opening. The fourth side will be completed later, when you sew the front to the side front.
Here are the piece you need for the pocket and front construction. Make sure the triangle notches are clearly cut/marked :
Prepare the welt
Fold the welt (H) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and give it a press (if your fabric allows).
The pattern instructions suggest using a zigzag stitch to hold the two layers together. For this tutorial, we are using a basting stitch instead. Sew a basting stitch 6 mm (1/4") from the raw edge. It will hold the layers together and give you a nice, visible stitching guide in the next steps. If you want to finish with your serger here, make sure you mark the notch placement :
Prepare the opening
Now clip the two corners right up to the staystitching, without cutting through it.
This is one of those little steps that makes a big difference: clipping close to the stitching lets the fabric turn neatly at the corners. Just stop before reaching the stitches. We want to keep that staystitching intact.
Sew the welt
Place the front piece (A) right side up. Pin the raw edge of the folded welt (H), matching its notch with the notch on the long edge of the pocket opening:
Flip and stitch directly over the visible staystitching, from one clipped corner to the other. The staystitching does all the work of showing you exactly where to sew:
Bring the welt toward the opening so it covers the seam you just stitched. At each end, pin the welt to the short seam allowance of the opening.
Stitch across each end, starting at the clipped corner and sewing toward the side edge of the front piece. Go slowly here; these little end seams are what give the opening its clean, tidy shape.
Topstitch around the welt opening. Try not to pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. If you need to turn a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, and keep going. Your welt is done!
Add the pocket bag
Flip the front piece (A) wrong side up. Place the pocket piece (G) wrong side up as well. Note: for a clean finish, you can finish the pocket edge without notch with your serger before continuing :
Pin the pocket piece (G) on the front piece, matching notches and covering the opening. Pin the pieces together and stitch all around the pocket piece, staying within the 6 mm (1/4") seam allowance :
Only the top section of this stitching (when you go across the front) will be visible so there is no need to worry if it the stitching along the front edges are not perfect.
Your pocket bag is now in place :
Finish the front
Pin the front to the side front, right sides together and matching the bottom notches, and stitch (you could use your serger here) :
Bring the seam allowance toward the side front, then topstitch without stretching the fabric:
That seam finishes the fourth side of the pocket opening and your welt pocket is complete! You can now continue with the rest of the garment assembly.
This pocket is worth the extra few minutes for a technical jacket that you will wear for years! (Emilie still wears hers - the cover photo jacket sewn in 2007!
The red jacket on the cover was sewn in Polartec Windpro 9509, a stretchy fleece with a cozy brushed side and a smooth, durable hard face. It is a great choice for a warm, practical jacket that still has plenty of comfort and movement.
Looking for fabric for your own jacket?
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