How to sew an in-seam zipper pocket (pattern 2679)

Jalie 2679 - Softshell Jacket Pattern for Girls and WomenThe zippered pockets are one of the great features of the 2679 jacket, but we know this part of the construction can be a little hard to visualize from the original illustrations alone.

Since the pattern has been a favorite for outdoor activities like cross-country skiing and hiking since its release in 2006, we thought this popular detail deserved a closer look!
In this tutorial, we’re breaking down the zippered pocket construction step by step, with plenty of photos to show exactly how the pieces come together. If this is the part that has been making you hesitate before sewing your 2679, we hope this makes it much easier to tackle!

GETTING READY

Before you start, make sure the notches (the little triangles) are clearly marked on pieces B and C, and have your 20 cm (8") zipper ready to go:

PREPARE THE POCKET OPENING

On the side front (C), sew a guide stitch line 6 mm (1/4") from the pocket opening edge. This line will help you position the zipper accurately:

INSERT THE ZIPPER

Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side of the side front, aligning the bottom zipper stop with the horizontal section of the guide stitching. Sew the zipper in place 6 mm (1/4") from the edge, starting at one horizontal guide line and stopping at the other.

From the wrong side, you can see that the seam runs directly over the vertical section of the guide stitching you made earlier:

Clip into the corners of the pocket opening (fabric only, not the zipper taps), being careful not to cut through the stitching :

FINISH THE POCKET OPENING

Bring the zipper pull down inside the pocket opening:

Fold the side front as shown to expose the short ends of the opening. Flip each short ends of the opening so their right side is against the right side of the zipper. Pin and stitch directly over the visible guide stitching, from the corner to the edge of the fabric:

The stitching that shapes the pocket opening is now complete. It's now time to trim off the excess zipper beyond the stitching at the top and bottom of the pocket opening:

Topstitch around the pocket opening, 3 mm (1/8") from the edge of the opening:

ATTACH TO CENTER FRONT

Pin the center front (B) to the side front (C), matching the notches, and stitch 1 cm (3/8'') from edge. The stitching should run approximately along the center of the zipper tape:


Press/bring the seam allowances toward the center front and topstitch on the center front, 6 mm (1/4") from the seam:

And that’s it! The zippered pocket opening is complete! You can now move on to the pocket bag, then continue with the rest of the jacket assembly.

Jalie 2679 - Softshell Jacket Pattern for Girls and Women

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS

The yellow jacket featured on the pattern cover was sewn in Polartec Wind Pro 9509, a stretchy fleece with a cozy brushed side and a smooth, durable outer face. It’s a great choice for a warm, practical jacket that still offers plenty of comfort and freedom of movement. The maroon and black jacket was made in Polartec Power Shield 7796, a classic 4-way stretch softshell option similar to what you would find in high-end technical sportswear.

Looking for fabric for your own jacket?

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INSPIRATION

You can find inspiring makes of the 2679 on Instagram and on the pattern page.



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